Here is the final installment of this great piece of truffle descriptive history!
+++
Truffles are sadly exposed to being poached, and the dog is the animal trained to poach by his rascally master. The dog will himself dig up the tuber, and bring it in his mouth. The poacher has sometimes his store of stolen truffles concealed under leaves, and he sends his dog to remove them. This the faithful creature does, and poaching truffles by this means is difficult of detection.
The botanical name of the black edible truffle is Tuber melanosporum.
As it grows and swells, it raises and cracks the earth above it, and through these cracks various insects enter and lay their eggs in its flesh, which is to serve as food for the larva till change of condition. The peasants have observed the fluttering of the insects, have noticed that they have entered the soil, but they drew from this observation the wrong conclusion, when they supposed that they wounded the root of the oak. What they pricked was the ripening tuber.
As already said, the first notice given of the presence of the truffle about the roots of the oak is the perishing of the grasses and flowers that covered the soil. This is occasioned by the minute filaments thrown out by the truffle in its growth, which envelop and strangle the roots of the plants above and around it. But as the truffle ripens, its rootlets are atrophied and disappear, leaving marks on the surface of the tuber where they have been; and as the truffle is dug up when ripe, then all these rootlets have disappeared, and the tuber comes up like a nut, so that it has long been supposed, erroneously, that it was without roots.
If a mushroom be taken and placed, when ripe, over a sheet of paper and tapped, then a fine powder falls on the paper, from- the radiating membranes under the cap. These are the spores or seeds. But the truffle does not produce its spores in the same manner. They are contained within its fleshy body, and 'are only liberated when the flesh decays.
Usually the truffle lies from one to three inches under the surface of the soil, consequently it is very liable to be killed by a hard frost, and only flourishes in such southern districts where the frost lies superficially. After oaks have attained the age of 25 or 30 years, they are able to resist the attacks of the truffle, at all events spasmodically. It has been observed that after they have attained this age, a couple or more years may elapse without any truffles appearing about their roots, then for a year they are produced, and then again ensues a period in which they are free. That the truffle reduces the vitality of an oak, just as does mistletoe, can hardly be doubted, as it drains away the sap from the feeders of the oak. It attacks the essential organs of its life.
As the law is now well understood that a truffle ceases to produce regularly after the tree on which it feeds has reached the age of from 25 to 30 years, in artificial truffle grounds the young oak trees are invariably cut down at this age. Rather hard on the oak—but the tree is only valued for its parasite. By planting acorns every year, a regular crop of these earth-nuts is obtained. No coppice is fruitful in truffles. "Coppice," said a tmfficr, "is the poison of these tubers." They must have freedom in which to develop; moreover, what kills them is the accumulation of dead leaves, or any substance above them, which excludes light and air. An excellent truffle ground has been ruined for years by the accumulation on it of faggots that have been left, and not immediately removed. Moreover, much injury is done in an oak wood when the trees are felled, by dragging the timber along the soil, as it tears up the tubers, and injures the fibrous roots on which they feed.
Vast quantities of truffles are brought to PeVigueux, where are many manufactories. They are bottled and tinned; and they enter into the composition of the pates or which Perigueux is famous; pates of partridge, pates of hare, pates of foie gras, and various jellies and spiced dainties. The winter months are those when this manufacture goes on, for not only is the truffle only then in season, but so also the game, and then only have the geese been fattened up so that their livers are enlarged.
The preserved truffle is hardly to be commended. It is placed in a bath of boiling water for at least three hours, when it has given forth a good deal of its flavour. Then it is hermetically sealed up. The main consumption of truffles is in France. Two-thirds of those sold are eaten at home. France is a favoured land for truffles, and Frenchmen love them. In 1885 nearly 47,000 kilos were exported to England, 26,000 to Germany, 8000 to China, and 17,000 to Belgium. The demand in the United States is not very great, 9550 kilos. France cannot supply the demand, and something like 20,000 kilos are imported, mostly from Italy.
To hear enthusiasts speak, one would expect something more of the truffle than the unprepossessed are disposed to allow. It is said to assist digestion, to have medicinal properties, to be a dainty above all other dainties; it is called the "diamond of the kitchen," and "the pearl of Perigord." But no medical man of experience will allow that it has curative properties; and certainly if a diamond or a pearl, it is a black one, and, but to the professional gourmand, not very tasty.
Although the best truffles are reputed to be those of PeVigord, yet the department of Lot, of which Cahors is the capital, produces a far larger amount than that of Dordogne, and the principal truffle market is at Cahors.
This venerable city is planted on a rocky tongue of land, round which winds the beautiful river Lot. On all sides tower up limestone mountains, barren and dry, but with limpid springs oozing out at their bases. This is just the country for truffles, and they flourish wherever there are oaks on which they can prey.
Cahors possesses a bridge that surpasses even that of Prague in picturesqueness. It is mediaeval, consists of six arches, and has on it three towers. It is in good condition, and has been carefully restored. Formerly the second bridge had likewise its towers, but these have been destroyed. According to tradition, the devil assisted the architect commissioned to build the bridge, stipulating for the soul of the architect. By some means the latter outwitted the devil, who in a rage vowed that the bridge should never be completed. Accordingly, one angle at the top of the middle tower remained ruinous all through the Middle Ages. At the restoration of the bridge the ruinous angle was rebuilt, and the figure of Satan was placed there, in token that modern science had defeated him.
The cathedral of Cahors is one of those quaint domed Byzantine edifices that are found about this region of France. It has two domes, and consists of one vast hall, without pillars and aisles. The easternmost compartment was pulled down in the fourteenth century, and rebuilt in the style of that period, The church is very odd and very striking. It stands in the same relation to Amiens or Bourges as does a stout old lady to a slim and tall maiden. It is low, broad, solid—and does not pose to be thought beautiful.
It is an amusing sight to stand in the market at Cahors and watch the sale of truffles. The cunning, shrewd, suspicious French peasant shows himself there in his true character. All the largest truffles are at the top of his sack. Below are not only the smaller, but also "dog's noses." To this market come the agents for the great manufacturers of conserves at Perigueux, and much haggling ensues and turning over of the stores exposed. Finally a bargain is struck, and the average price is 15 francs, or 12s. 6d., for a kilo, that is, a little over 2 lb.; but at times it reaches 28 francs. Some years favour the production of truffles, and in some they are scarce. But whether in plenty or scarce, the demand is the same, nay rather, it grows. The bottled and tinned truffle bears the same relation to one that is fresh, as does the tinned lobster or the potted peach to the lobster fresh from the sea or the peach from the sunny wall.
Truffle grounds are regularly let, and the Government derives a revenue from its domains planted with oaks, which it farms to truffiers. One little village in the department of Lot, nearly ruined by the disease that swept away its vines, replanted with young oak, and now is flourishing on the revenue derived from the truffles. In one year its harvest of truffles brought in 300,000 francs.
The Italian truffle {Tuber magnatuni) is peculiar to Italy. It is liver-coloured internally, and has a strong scent of garlic. Its habitat is much the same as the French truffle, but it differs in this respect, that it is not confined to woods, but is found in the open field as well. The Italian peasantry prefer to roast their truffles in hot ashes.
In Great Britain we have a number of species, of which the Tuber astivum, that is found in abundance in the New Forest, is most esteemed. It is hunted regularly by trained dogs in the Forest, and its market price varies from 2s. to 5s. per pound.
The only occasion on which I have met with discourtesy in Southern France was at Perigueux, when I visited a factory of potted spiced meats. The proprietors absolutely refused to let me over it and to give me any information. But there was a reason for this. A few years ago some Americans got into one of the factories, observed the processes, and started similar manufactories in America. As the export to the United States amounts to something like 25,000 lb. per annum, this naturally enough aroused the anger of the French manufacturers.
Closely connected with the truffle is the foie gras, which is flavoured with slices of it.
The geese are fattened for three or four weeks on Indian corn, which is poured down their throats through funnels. They become obese and can hardly waddle about. Their livers become enormously enlarged, and when killed, the poor brutes arc sold rather for their livers than for their flesh. Foie gras fetches from 6 to 7 francs a kilo.
No comments:
Post a Comment