Yet another interesting historical definition of the truffle.
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The truffle, Tuber cibarium Sibth., is a gasteromycetaceous fungus, a native of Britain, and growing naturally some inches below the surface. It is very common in the downs of Wiltshire, Hampshire, and Kent, whore dogs arc trained to scent it out, and where also it is sought out and devoured by pigs;—which on the Continent are used to discover the localities of this fungus, as dogs are in England. It is sent to the London market from different parts of England in a green state, and imported from the Continent sliced and dried ; the most celebrated truffles are those from the oak forests of Perigord. Various attempts have been made, both in Britain and on the Continent, to cultivate the truffle, but hitherto without success (G.M. I., VIII., and XIII.); but it would appear that Dr. Klotzsch, of Berlin, has ascertained that the best course is to take truffles which are no longer good for the table, being over-ripe, and nearly in a state of decomposition, diffusing a disagreeable odour; to break them into pieces, and place them two inches or three inches deep in the earth, in rather raised flat places, under copse or underwood, protected from the north and east winds. Truffles in the state in which they are eaten are never ripe, and therefore unfit for propagation.—(Gard. Chron. 1842, p. 287.)
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Have a great evening!
Friday, January 28, 2011
Monday, January 24, 2011
Two Truffle Videos
I found two YouTube videos on truffles I thought worth sharing.
The first is, rather simply, about just what a truffle is.
This second video, like the most recent posts, were about finding truffles with dogs.
Please comment and let me know what you think of the videos.
The first is, rather simply, about just what a truffle is.
This second video, like the most recent posts, were about finding truffles with dogs.
Please comment and let me know what you think of the videos.
Sunday, January 23, 2011
Truffle Dogs, Pt 2 by Walsh
Here is the second part about truffle dogs. I think it's as interesting as the first.
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We have questioned two experienced truffle-diggers, and gather from them the following information:
Truffle-digging gives employment to many hands during winter, and in the early months of spring lOOtb. a week is not an uncommon amount when a man has a good dog, and works hard; and instances have been known of a man digging 351b. or even 401b. in a day, where truffles were unsuspected, and the ground had not been "worked."
The truffle with a rough scaly coat, much resembling the fir-cone, these men call a " bud truffle;" the smooth-coated variety they call a "garlic truffle." Both are equally good for the table; but there is a red-sldraied truffle found deeper in the ground, which they assert to be poisonous.
Our informants stated that, some years ago, a specimen was found weighing 3jlb., and "nearly as large as a half-gallon loaf." This assertion we doubt; but we do believe they are frequently met with weighing lflb. or 2lb., though inferior in flavour to the smaller specimens.
In Italy, this fungus is hunted with a pig (a fact confirmed by Youatt); in France (as with us), the truffle-hunter depends upon his dog. The breed is rare, and the men dislike to sell them. It is said that about two hundred years ago an old Spaniard brought two dogs into Wiltshire, and made a great deal of money by the sale of truffles which his dogs found for him; and at his death he left his money and his dogs to a farmer from whom he had received some kindness, and that the present dogs are derived from those he left that farmer.
The truffle-dog is a small poodle (nearly a pure poodle), and weighing about 151b. He is white, or black-and-white, or black, with the black mouth and under-lip of his race. He is a sharp, intelligent, quaint companion, and has the "homeing" faculty of a pigeon. When sold to a new master he has been known to find his way home for sixty miles, and to have travelled the greater part of the way by night.
He is mute in his quest, and should be thoroughly broken from all game. These are essential qualities in a dog whose owner frequently hunts truffles at night—in the shrubberies of mansions protected by keepers and watchmen, who regard him with suspicion. In order to distinguish a black dog on these occasions, the hunter furnishes his animal with a white shirt, and occasionally also hunts him in a line.
These dogs are rather longer on the leg than the true poodle, but have exquisite noses, and hunt close to the ground. On the scent of a truffle (especially in the morning or evening, when it gives out most smell), they show all the keenness of a spaniel, working their short-cropped tails, and feathering along the surface of the ground for from twenty to fifty yards. Arrived at the spot where the fungus lies buried, some two or three inches beneath the surface, they dig like a terrier at a rat's hole, and the best of them, if let alone, will disinter the fungus and carry it to his master. It is not usual, however, to allow the dog to exhaust himself in this way, and the owner forks up the truffle and gives the dog his usual reward, a piece of bread or cheese; for this he looks, from long habit, with tho keen glance of a Spanish gipsy.
The truffle-hunter is set up in business when he possesses a good dog; all he requires besides will be a short staff", about 2ft. 5in. long, shod with a strong iron ppint, and at the other end furnished with a two-fanged iron hook. With this implement he can dig the largest truffle, or draw aside the briers or boughs in copse-wood to give his dog free scope to use his nose. He travels frequently thirty or forty miles on his hunting expeditions; and with this (to use a business term) inexpensive "plant" keeps a wife and children easily. We know personally one blue grizzled dog of the old truffle breed which supports a family of ten children.
The truffle dog is a delicate animal to rear, and a choice feeder. Being continually propagated from one stock, he has become peculiarly susceptible of all dog diseases, and when that fatal year comes round which desolates the kennel in his quarter, many truffle hunters are left destitute of dogs and consequently short of bread; for they will not believe (as we believe) that any dog with a keen nose and lively temper may be taught to hunt and find truffles.
The education of the dog commences when he is about three months old. At first he is taught to fetch a truffle, and when he does this well and cheerfully, his master places it on the ground, and slightly covers it with earth, selecting one of peculiar fragrance for the purpose. As the dog becomes more expert and keen for the amusement, he buries the truffle deeper, and rewards him in proportion to his progress. He then takes him where he knows truffles to be abundant, or where they have been previously found by a well-broken animal, and marked. Thus he gradually learns his trade, and becomes (as his forefathers have been for many generations) the bread-winner for his master and his master's family; unless he is so fortunate as to become attache to some lordly mansion, or possibly to a royal palace, in which case he is a fortunate dog indeed.
The supply of truffles is uncertain, and the price varies from tenpence to thirty shillings a pound.
In the summer months we have found them, not with a dog, for at this season they have little smell, but from a peculiar cracking of the ground. We have more than once marked the place with a stick, and examined the specimen from time to time. On one occasion we left a truffle from July to November, and could discover no perceptible alteration in its size. Frost destroys those exposed to its influence, and the very old, or very large, or frosted truffles are frequently infested by small brown insects. We have given the result of our inquiries and experience. We must refer our readers for further information to a work of which we have heard, although we have not been able to procure it, "Badham's Esculent Fungi."
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I hope you enjoyed, and may you have an excellent day!
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We have questioned two experienced truffle-diggers, and gather from them the following information:
Truffle-digging gives employment to many hands during winter, and in the early months of spring lOOtb. a week is not an uncommon amount when a man has a good dog, and works hard; and instances have been known of a man digging 351b. or even 401b. in a day, where truffles were unsuspected, and the ground had not been "worked."
The truffle with a rough scaly coat, much resembling the fir-cone, these men call a " bud truffle;" the smooth-coated variety they call a "garlic truffle." Both are equally good for the table; but there is a red-sldraied truffle found deeper in the ground, which they assert to be poisonous.
Our informants stated that, some years ago, a specimen was found weighing 3jlb., and "nearly as large as a half-gallon loaf." This assertion we doubt; but we do believe they are frequently met with weighing lflb. or 2lb., though inferior in flavour to the smaller specimens.
In Italy, this fungus is hunted with a pig (a fact confirmed by Youatt); in France (as with us), the truffle-hunter depends upon his dog. The breed is rare, and the men dislike to sell them. It is said that about two hundred years ago an old Spaniard brought two dogs into Wiltshire, and made a great deal of money by the sale of truffles which his dogs found for him; and at his death he left his money and his dogs to a farmer from whom he had received some kindness, and that the present dogs are derived from those he left that farmer.
The truffle-dog is a small poodle (nearly a pure poodle), and weighing about 151b. He is white, or black-and-white, or black, with the black mouth and under-lip of his race. He is a sharp, intelligent, quaint companion, and has the "homeing" faculty of a pigeon. When sold to a new master he has been known to find his way home for sixty miles, and to have travelled the greater part of the way by night.
He is mute in his quest, and should be thoroughly broken from all game. These are essential qualities in a dog whose owner frequently hunts truffles at night—in the shrubberies of mansions protected by keepers and watchmen, who regard him with suspicion. In order to distinguish a black dog on these occasions, the hunter furnishes his animal with a white shirt, and occasionally also hunts him in a line.
These dogs are rather longer on the leg than the true poodle, but have exquisite noses, and hunt close to the ground. On the scent of a truffle (especially in the morning or evening, when it gives out most smell), they show all the keenness of a spaniel, working their short-cropped tails, and feathering along the surface of the ground for from twenty to fifty yards. Arrived at the spot where the fungus lies buried, some two or three inches beneath the surface, they dig like a terrier at a rat's hole, and the best of them, if let alone, will disinter the fungus and carry it to his master. It is not usual, however, to allow the dog to exhaust himself in this way, and the owner forks up the truffle and gives the dog his usual reward, a piece of bread or cheese; for this he looks, from long habit, with tho keen glance of a Spanish gipsy.
The truffle-hunter is set up in business when he possesses a good dog; all he requires besides will be a short staff", about 2ft. 5in. long, shod with a strong iron ppint, and at the other end furnished with a two-fanged iron hook. With this implement he can dig the largest truffle, or draw aside the briers or boughs in copse-wood to give his dog free scope to use his nose. He travels frequently thirty or forty miles on his hunting expeditions; and with this (to use a business term) inexpensive "plant" keeps a wife and children easily. We know personally one blue grizzled dog of the old truffle breed which supports a family of ten children.
The truffle dog is a delicate animal to rear, and a choice feeder. Being continually propagated from one stock, he has become peculiarly susceptible of all dog diseases, and when that fatal year comes round which desolates the kennel in his quarter, many truffle hunters are left destitute of dogs and consequently short of bread; for they will not believe (as we believe) that any dog with a keen nose and lively temper may be taught to hunt and find truffles.
The education of the dog commences when he is about three months old. At first he is taught to fetch a truffle, and when he does this well and cheerfully, his master places it on the ground, and slightly covers it with earth, selecting one of peculiar fragrance for the purpose. As the dog becomes more expert and keen for the amusement, he buries the truffle deeper, and rewards him in proportion to his progress. He then takes him where he knows truffles to be abundant, or where they have been previously found by a well-broken animal, and marked. Thus he gradually learns his trade, and becomes (as his forefathers have been for many generations) the bread-winner for his master and his master's family; unless he is so fortunate as to become attache to some lordly mansion, or possibly to a royal palace, in which case he is a fortunate dog indeed.
The supply of truffles is uncertain, and the price varies from tenpence to thirty shillings a pound.
In the summer months we have found them, not with a dog, for at this season they have little smell, but from a peculiar cracking of the ground. We have more than once marked the place with a stick, and examined the specimen from time to time. On one occasion we left a truffle from July to November, and could discover no perceptible alteration in its size. Frost destroys those exposed to its influence, and the very old, or very large, or frosted truffles are frequently infested by small brown insects. We have given the result of our inquiries and experience. We must refer our readers for further information to a work of which we have heard, although we have not been able to procure it, "Badham's Esculent Fungi."
+++
I hope you enjoyed, and may you have an excellent day!
Saturday, January 22, 2011
Truffle Dogs, Pt 1 by Walsh
Here's the first of two parts about truffles and truffle dogs. An amazing food and the loyal hound...
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We are far behind the Germans, French, and Italians in our knowledge of esculent fungi. Our Continental neighbours are far more skilled, both in their preservation and production. They can dry them, or preserve them in oil, vinegar, or brine; and in neither case do these conserves lose much of their aroma, flavour, or nutritious quality. One Italian species is produced by scattering a shallow layer of soil upon a porous slab of stone, and occasionally moistening it with water; another, by slightly burning, and subsequently watering, blocks of hazel-wood; and a third (a species of Agaricus) is cultivated by placing the grounds of coffee in places favourable for its growth. The market returns of Rome show that as much as £4000 a year are expended on those productions; and the peasantry of France, Germany, and Italy iD many places subsist to a great extent upon them, is an established fact.
The truffle—an edible underground fungus—is classed by Berkeley with the morel, as one of the Ascomycetes, because in these the "spores," or organs of reproduction, are arranged in asci (tubular sacs, or vesicles). The best writers on fungi have arrived at this learned conclusion; but in spite of all their discoveries, and their elaborate remarks on "spheroidal cells," and "spores," and "fructification taking place in some particular membrane," we believe attempts to cultivate the truffle have failed.
Science has ascertained that they form an intermediate link between the animal and vegetable kingdom, for they do not absorb carbonic acid from the air and give out oxygen, but, like animals, they absorb oxygen and give out carbonic acid.
The truffle is found in many districts of France, Spain, and Italy; and in other parts of these countries, doubtless (as in England), it exists, though it has not been discovered.
In this country it may be found on almost every chalky down, especially where plantations of beech flourish, and in many gentlemen's parks, and on lawns. Hampshire, Wilts, Dorset, and Kent, all these counties produce truffles of rich quality and in great abundance. Beneath the beech, the cedar, the lime, the oak, the hazel, the Scotch fir, it is frequently to be found in clusters, one, two, or three feet apart. It is known to be at Tedworth (the seat of the late Mr. T. Assheton Smith); at Charbro Park, Dorset (the seat of Mr. Drax); at Olantigh Towers, in Kent; and at Holnest House, in Dorset (both seats belonging to the same gentleman); whilst Kingston Lacey, in Dorset (the property of the Bankeses), produces both morelR and truffles. Truffles are also found at East well Park, Kent; at Sir J. Sebright's, in Beechwood Park; at Lord Barrington's; at Lord Jersey's; at Longleat, Wilts; at the Countess Bridgewater's; at Lord Winchilsea's; and, we believe, at the Earl of Abingdon's seat, near Oxford.
In some of these localities they are found in beds of twenty, thirty, or more. Sometimes they are discovered singly, in most unpromising situations and of extraordinary size; occasionally they are on the surface of the earth, half eaten by hares, squirrels, rats, mice, or rooks—their natural enemies. Sometimes they are raked up with the dead leaves by the gardener' and one of the finest we ever dug was found by a truffle-dog close to an old gate-post; whilst within a fortnight of the writing of this article, a keeper picked up a large truffle dropped from a fir-tree by a squirrel.
They are in season from November until March, and when fit for the table are nearly black. Cut open, they are of close texture, marbled or spotted with a grey tint. In the summer they are white inside, and give but little smell, and are unsavoury. They vary in size. Occasionally they are so minute as to be scarcely visible, frequently as large as a walnut, and they are commonly as large as a moderate-sized potato.
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Part II tomorrow!
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We are far behind the Germans, French, and Italians in our knowledge of esculent fungi. Our Continental neighbours are far more skilled, both in their preservation and production. They can dry them, or preserve them in oil, vinegar, or brine; and in neither case do these conserves lose much of their aroma, flavour, or nutritious quality. One Italian species is produced by scattering a shallow layer of soil upon a porous slab of stone, and occasionally moistening it with water; another, by slightly burning, and subsequently watering, blocks of hazel-wood; and a third (a species of Agaricus) is cultivated by placing the grounds of coffee in places favourable for its growth. The market returns of Rome show that as much as £4000 a year are expended on those productions; and the peasantry of France, Germany, and Italy iD many places subsist to a great extent upon them, is an established fact.
The truffle—an edible underground fungus—is classed by Berkeley with the morel, as one of the Ascomycetes, because in these the "spores," or organs of reproduction, are arranged in asci (tubular sacs, or vesicles). The best writers on fungi have arrived at this learned conclusion; but in spite of all their discoveries, and their elaborate remarks on "spheroidal cells," and "spores," and "fructification taking place in some particular membrane," we believe attempts to cultivate the truffle have failed.
Science has ascertained that they form an intermediate link between the animal and vegetable kingdom, for they do not absorb carbonic acid from the air and give out oxygen, but, like animals, they absorb oxygen and give out carbonic acid.
The truffle is found in many districts of France, Spain, and Italy; and in other parts of these countries, doubtless (as in England), it exists, though it has not been discovered.
In this country it may be found on almost every chalky down, especially where plantations of beech flourish, and in many gentlemen's parks, and on lawns. Hampshire, Wilts, Dorset, and Kent, all these counties produce truffles of rich quality and in great abundance. Beneath the beech, the cedar, the lime, the oak, the hazel, the Scotch fir, it is frequently to be found in clusters, one, two, or three feet apart. It is known to be at Tedworth (the seat of the late Mr. T. Assheton Smith); at Charbro Park, Dorset (the seat of Mr. Drax); at Olantigh Towers, in Kent; and at Holnest House, in Dorset (both seats belonging to the same gentleman); whilst Kingston Lacey, in Dorset (the property of the Bankeses), produces both morelR and truffles. Truffles are also found at East well Park, Kent; at Sir J. Sebright's, in Beechwood Park; at Lord Barrington's; at Lord Jersey's; at Longleat, Wilts; at the Countess Bridgewater's; at Lord Winchilsea's; and, we believe, at the Earl of Abingdon's seat, near Oxford.
In some of these localities they are found in beds of twenty, thirty, or more. Sometimes they are discovered singly, in most unpromising situations and of extraordinary size; occasionally they are on the surface of the earth, half eaten by hares, squirrels, rats, mice, or rooks—their natural enemies. Sometimes they are raked up with the dead leaves by the gardener' and one of the finest we ever dug was found by a truffle-dog close to an old gate-post; whilst within a fortnight of the writing of this article, a keeper picked up a large truffle dropped from a fir-tree by a squirrel.
They are in season from November until March, and when fit for the table are nearly black. Cut open, they are of close texture, marbled or spotted with a grey tint. In the summer they are white inside, and give but little smell, and are unsavoury. They vary in size. Occasionally they are so minute as to be scarcely visible, frequently as large as a walnut, and they are commonly as large as a moderate-sized potato.
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Part II tomorrow!
Thursday, January 20, 2011
Littell's Interesting Truffle Reference
Have you used a truffle in your writing reference lately? Is your friend or lover like a truffle? How so?
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The ancient Tactfijs was the wild red truffle of Italy; but the Romans also got the white truffle, called the Lybian, from Africa. Pliny believed truffles to be a mere excrescence of the earth, and related an anecdote of a Carthaginian governor who fbund a coin in the centre of one; but doubtless, the fungus grew over the coin, and thus enclosed it. In Athens (after the people had become corrupted by luxury) the freedom of citizens was given to the children of one Cherips, because their father had invented a new ragout of truffles. As these fungi never appeared over ground, it would not bo possible to discover them but for their strong odor, which is particularly powerful just before thunder, when the air is filled with moisture, from which circumstance the country people, in some places, call them " thunder roots."
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The ancient Tactfijs was the wild red truffle of Italy; but the Romans also got the white truffle, called the Lybian, from Africa. Pliny believed truffles to be a mere excrescence of the earth, and related an anecdote of a Carthaginian governor who fbund a coin in the centre of one; but doubtless, the fungus grew over the coin, and thus enclosed it. In Athens (after the people had become corrupted by luxury) the freedom of citizens was given to the children of one Cherips, because their father had invented a new ragout of truffles. As these fungi never appeared over ground, it would not bo possible to discover them but for their strong odor, which is particularly powerful just before thunder, when the air is filled with moisture, from which circumstance the country people, in some places, call them " thunder roots."
Tuesday, January 18, 2011
What is a Truffle? Charles McIntosh Tells Us
From The Book of the Garden, Charles McIntosh tells us just what a truffle is.
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The truffle (Tuber cibarium, common truffle, Sibthorp, fig. 98; and Tuber albidum, white truffle, Ca>8.) belongs to the same class and order
January. From the Comte's practice little practical information con be drawn, further than that truffles were planted in a situation and in a medium favourable for tho seed which was contained in the planted tubers vegetating at its natural season- a circumstance we think more simply accomplished, and with probably as much success, by the peasant truffle-hunter in our own country, who doposits again in the soil all very small and decaying truffles, unfit for market, in the spot from whence he dug them, or transplants them to situations where none grew before, choosing, however, a similar soil, and in general under shadow of a tree of the same species under which they ore usually found. The oak and the beech appear to be the most favourable for the purpose. This would lead us to conclude that the truffle prefers a rather dry locality. Bradley's recommendation is, " that the truffle may be easily cultivated where there are woods or coppices of oak or hazel, and where the soil is not too stiff, or inclining to chalk. The soil where they are most found is a reddish sandy loam ; this, then, will be the best for our purpose, especially if it has lain long uncultivated. The soil should remain undisturbed till the months of October, November, or December, which is the proper season for planting, if the weather be open, for then the truffles are to be found in their full ripening; and then, likewise, one may find them in a state of putrefaction, which is the time when the seeds are prepared for vegetation. It is in tho last state that we ought to gather truffles for planting, or at least they should be in perfect riponess." Ho proceeds to plant as follows: " Open a spot of ground, of a convenient space, and take out the earth about 8 inches deep, and screen it, that it may be as fine as possible ; then lay about 2 or 3 inches thick of this fine earth at the bottom of the trench, and upon it lay some of the overripe truffles, about a foot and a half distance from one another ; and as soon as possible propare a thin mud, made of tho screened earth and water, well stirred and mixed together, and pour it on the truffles till the open ground is quito filled up. By this means, in a few hours, the ground will be as closely settled about the truffles as if it had never been dug or disturbed at all, and you may expect a good crop in due time. You must, however, take care to choose your spots of ground in woods or coppices, or such places as are shaded with trees." As regards information on the culture of the truffle, we are in much the same state as were our forefathers ages ago, when it was gravely recommended to them by some of our earliest authorities, to collect the young mushrooms wherever they were found growing naturally, and, on taking them up, to transplant them on dungbeds in their gardens; or, as others recommended, to take full-grown mushrooms, and break them down in water, and water the beds with the infusion. To succeed in tho culture of the morel or truffle, we should assuredly follow the course practised with the common mushroom, namely, secure and increase a supply of seed, preserve it in shape of spawn, and transplant it, in that state, into prepared beds, as nearly as possible resembling that in which they are found to exist naturally. Succeeding in this, more artificial means might successfully be adopted afterwards.
Little has been written on the cultivation of this valuable fungus in Britain. We believe the only works in English that treat on truffle culture are the translations, by Mr Francis Mascoll, of M. Alex, de Bornholz's " Treatise on the Cultivation of Truffles," and that of Von V. F. Fisher, entitled " Instructions in Truffle-hunting." The essence of both will be found in the 13th volume of the " Gardeners' Magazine," p. 389-408, and is well worth the perusal of the English reader. The observations of Bradley, quoted above, will be found in his " Physical Observations on Gardening." No less than eleven treatises on this curious subject have appeared in France and Germany, the best of which is the article Truffle, by Drs Lippold and Funke, in " Lexicon of Nature and Art," part 3, and the splendid " History and Monograph of Truffles," by Dr TulaBno, Paris, 1851 ; and the plans proposed for their cultivation by Von Justi and Bulliard are worth consulting. They all agree that a soil should be chosen for the artificial cultivation of this fungi, as similar as possible to that in which truffles grow naturally; that it should be trenched to the depth of 2 or 3 feet; and that either pieces of the earth in which truffles grow naturally, or single truffles, fully grown, should be planted in it Dr Klotzsch of Berlin recommends taking such truffles as are over-ripe, and nearly in a state of decomposition, breaking them in pieces, and placing them 2 or 3 inches deep in the soil, " in rather raised flat places," under coppices or underwood, and in a sheltered situation. No one appears to have tried its cultivation in a regular mushroom-house, although it at once presents many of the apparent essentials sought for by these authorities, under the Bhade of trees, coppiceB, &c.; and we doubt not if those who live in the localities where they naturally abound were to collect the truffles when beginning to decay, at which time their seeds are fully matured, and to transfer them to a bed of earth composed of material similar to that in which they naturally grow, abundance of truffle-spawn would be secured, and might be multiplied as readily as that of the common mushroom: or why not collect the truffle-spawn, and transfer it to artificial beds, as is often done in the case of the mushroom ? The truffle being little known to cultivators generally, the following description by Mascall, in addition to our fig. 98, may enable them to detect it with certainty : " Of a round form, more or less approaching to that of a sphere, or of an egg, or sometimes kidney-shaped (for they assume all these forms), and somewhat rough with protuberances. The colour of the surface is, when it is young, whitish, but in those that are fullgrown it is either blackish or a deep black. The colour of tho inside is whitish, with darkblue and white, grey, reddish, light-brown, or dark-brown veins, of the thickness of a horsehair, which are usually variously entangled, and which form a kind of network or mat. Between the veins are numerous cavities, filled with a great deal of mucilage and small solid grains. These scarcely visible glands were formerly said to be the seeds or germs of the young truffles. The less the inside of the truffle is coloured with dark veins, the more tender and delicious is its flesh. The blackish external rind is hard and very rough, by means of fine fissurcB, grains, and protuberances, and forms, with its small facets, which are almost hexagonal, an appearance by which it somewhat resembles the firapples of the larch. Whilst the truffle is young, its smell resembles that of putrid plants, or of moist vegetable earth. When it first approaches the point of time at which it has attained its full growth, it diffuses an agreeable smell, which is peculiar to it, resembling that of musk, which lasts only a few days: it then becomes stronger, and the nearer the fungus is to its dissolution, which speedily ensues, so much the more unpleasant and urinous is the smell, till at last it is quite disagreeable and putrid. Whilst young, tho flesh is watory, and its taste insipid : when fully formed, its firm flesh, which is like the kernel of the almond and the nut, has an extremely aromatic and delicious taste; but as soon as the fungus begins to decay, and worms and putrescence to attack it, its taste is bitter and disagreeable."
Wherever truffles are produced, they are to be found the whole year through, from the beginning of spring till late in autumn, but in the greatest plenty from towards the end of the month of August to the latter end of October. They thrive extremely, like all fungi, in warm moist autumns, and are then most delicious. After warm continuous showers, they are found nearer the surface of the soil, sometimes so high that they form little hemispherical mounds of earth, in which small clefts are produced by the sun's rays. If the soil is loose, and dry weather succeeds, the earth which was raised up falls down, and the truffle is seen half uncovered.
The favourite habitat of truffles is a somewhat moist, light, wood soil, which is defended from the immediate effect of the burning rays of the sun by large oak trees standing at a distance from each other, but is not deprived, by thick bushes, of the free access of the currents of air. Where, in woods, there are places bare of timber trees, and with but few bushes, or covered with pollard wood that does not stand thick, they thrive under an oak, beech,, white thorn, and even under a fruit tree, and sometimes attain the weight of from a pound to a pound and a half. This unusual size, however, is only met with in moist warm grounds; here they lie nearer the Burfaco of the soil. The drier the soil is, the deeper they are produced in it, but are usually so much the smaller: to this the vicinity of springs is the sole exception.
Truffles vary very much in size, form, and degree of roughness on the surface. Of all varieties those of a whitish colour arc most highly prissed, and hence the Piedmonteso is the most in esteem. Truffles, being destitute of roots, draw their nourishment from the soil by absorbent vessels which cover their whole surface, and these vessels are in general in the form of small warts; and therefore the soil which surrounds them should be kept in a uniform degree of moisture, for, if deprived of this, they soon wither away. On the other hand, if subjected to too great a degree of humidity, mould and other parasitic plants establish themselves on the surface of the tubers, and by degrees obstruct the absorbing vessels, causing putrefaction to onsue, and its concomitant attendants, insects, which prey upon tho tubers, and ultimately destroy them altogether. The first embryo of the truffle is exceedingly small and tender, as is the case with all fungi; and at that stage it is susceptible of injury, both from excess of drought and moisture. Their form is regulated much by the openness or looseness of tho soil around them, and hence the necessity of the preparations by deep-trenching and sifting, as above alluded to. " If the soil is everywhere equally loose, tho truffle assumes a globular form; but this is changed if there is on one side a greater opposition than on the other: hence the different forms of the tuber may be explained." As a rule in regard to their artificial cultivation, in connection with the state of the beds, wo may, in quoting from tho translation of Alex, von Bornholz's treatise, observe, " Where tho soil is most moist, whether above or below the truffle, there it will either rise up or sink deeper. The degree of power of attraction of the moisture in the earth to that in the truffle, necessitates such a change of place. In moist summers and in wet winters we find the truffles near the surface, even projecting above it. In dry summers, upon poor dry places in woods, they have often to be dug from a depth of more than half a foot Here is imposed upon them a greater pressure of superincumbent soil. If the earth is not very light, they cannot bo fully developed, and therefore remain small. The largest are, consequently, in general, found not deep under the earth, and in shaded light soil—that is, somewhat moist; they are not, however, so well tasted as those of middling size. Vegetable mould from oak leaves and decayed oak appears to contribute to the production and growth of truffles, as advantageously as the dung of horses does to that of mushrooms. In the one case, a peculiar animal matter produces the effect; in the other, a peculiar vegetable matter. Perhaps the tannin, or some other yet undiscovered product of tho oak tree, may be the principal causa The more of this matter any species of tree contains, with the greater facility are truffles produced in its vicinity, and in greater numbers." In the formation of truffle beds, it would appear that they should be of considerable depth, say from 18 inches to 3 feet; the soil finely sifted, and composed of vegetable mould of oak-tree leaves, decayed oak sawdust, or probably half-decayed tanners' bark, as each contains traces of the tannin principle Calcareous or ferruginous earth should be also employed; and the temperature, shade, and darkness of an ordinary mushroom-house form the fitting situation. In
regard to soil, Bornholz observes, that the greatest number of truffles, and the finest, are found in a light ferruginous calcareous soil. Such a one must, therefore, also be given to tho plantations or beds. The soil is found naturally only in particular situations, for which reason truffles do not grow everywhere. The spawn of truffles appears to be extremely delicate, and almost incapable, at least in its natural state, of being transported to any great distance; but this might be overcome, if those in whose vicinity truffles abound were to collect it and form it into spawn-bricks like that of mushrooms. Bornholz, in his treatise, confines himself entirely to their cultivation in woods and forests; all, therefore, that we can glean from his curious production is the medium suitable to the production and growth of this fungus in little other than a natural state.
From the review of Dr Tulasne's " History and Monograph of Truffles," in the " Gardeners Chronicle," 1852, p. 519, we learn that truffles and allied fungi are widely distributed over the globe. Some extend as far north as Upsal, while others are found to occur in Australia. " The black esculent truffles are by nature gregarious: they are found every year in the same spots. They occur exclusively in calcareous or calcareous and argillaceous soils, both on plains and declivities, and generally on ground more or less shaded by trees, but, as it appears, never on ground planted exclusively with conifers. Much has been written on the cultivation of truffles ; but, at present, experiments made in confirmation of published statements have not been attended with success. The only fact which is certain is, that their production can easily be effected in certain calcareous soils, even where they may not have been observed before. The plan consists simply in sowing acorns on the soil, and when tho oaks have attained the ago of ten or twelve years, truffles begin to appear. The extensive truffle layers of Loudon at Vienna were actually produced in this manner. They consisted a few years since of naked uncultivated plains, where truffles were unknown. The plantations must not be too thick. They are cut down for the first time when they are about twelve years' growth, and then at intervals of from seven to nine years. They continue fertile for about twenty-fivo or thirty years, when at length scarcely any truffles are produced. From the facility with which the mycelium, or spawn, is developed in specimens which have been brought from a distance, Dr Tulasne conceives that it might not be impossible to transplant the more valuable species into truffle layers where the more common sorts only occur. Their presence appears in general to depend more on the mineralogical character of the soil than on particular temperature, limestone districts being certainly most favourable to their growth."
Tho European names aro—Truffel in German; Tartufo nero in Italian; Truffe in French; and Aardnoot in Dutch.
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Perhaps a bit dry or strenuous on the brain, some of these 19th century texts are. Still, they do help ground our understanding and improve appreciation of the truffle.
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The truffle (Tuber cibarium, common truffle, Sibthorp, fig. 98; and Tuber albidum, white truffle, Ca>8.) belongs to the same class and order
January. From the Comte's practice little practical information con be drawn, further than that truffles were planted in a situation and in a medium favourable for tho seed which was contained in the planted tubers vegetating at its natural season- a circumstance we think more simply accomplished, and with probably as much success, by the peasant truffle-hunter in our own country, who doposits again in the soil all very small and decaying truffles, unfit for market, in the spot from whence he dug them, or transplants them to situations where none grew before, choosing, however, a similar soil, and in general under shadow of a tree of the same species under which they ore usually found. The oak and the beech appear to be the most favourable for the purpose. This would lead us to conclude that the truffle prefers a rather dry locality. Bradley's recommendation is, " that the truffle may be easily cultivated where there are woods or coppices of oak or hazel, and where the soil is not too stiff, or inclining to chalk. The soil where they are most found is a reddish sandy loam ; this, then, will be the best for our purpose, especially if it has lain long uncultivated. The soil should remain undisturbed till the months of October, November, or December, which is the proper season for planting, if the weather be open, for then the truffles are to be found in their full ripening; and then, likewise, one may find them in a state of putrefaction, which is the time when the seeds are prepared for vegetation. It is in tho last state that we ought to gather truffles for planting, or at least they should be in perfect riponess." Ho proceeds to plant as follows: " Open a spot of ground, of a convenient space, and take out the earth about 8 inches deep, and screen it, that it may be as fine as possible ; then lay about 2 or 3 inches thick of this fine earth at the bottom of the trench, and upon it lay some of the overripe truffles, about a foot and a half distance from one another ; and as soon as possible propare a thin mud, made of tho screened earth and water, well stirred and mixed together, and pour it on the truffles till the open ground is quito filled up. By this means, in a few hours, the ground will be as closely settled about the truffles as if it had never been dug or disturbed at all, and you may expect a good crop in due time. You must, however, take care to choose your spots of ground in woods or coppices, or such places as are shaded with trees." As regards information on the culture of the truffle, we are in much the same state as were our forefathers ages ago, when it was gravely recommended to them by some of our earliest authorities, to collect the young mushrooms wherever they were found growing naturally, and, on taking them up, to transplant them on dungbeds in their gardens; or, as others recommended, to take full-grown mushrooms, and break them down in water, and water the beds with the infusion. To succeed in tho culture of the morel or truffle, we should assuredly follow the course practised with the common mushroom, namely, secure and increase a supply of seed, preserve it in shape of spawn, and transplant it, in that state, into prepared beds, as nearly as possible resembling that in which they are found to exist naturally. Succeeding in this, more artificial means might successfully be adopted afterwards.
Little has been written on the cultivation of this valuable fungus in Britain. We believe the only works in English that treat on truffle culture are the translations, by Mr Francis Mascoll, of M. Alex, de Bornholz's " Treatise on the Cultivation of Truffles," and that of Von V. F. Fisher, entitled " Instructions in Truffle-hunting." The essence of both will be found in the 13th volume of the " Gardeners' Magazine," p. 389-408, and is well worth the perusal of the English reader. The observations of Bradley, quoted above, will be found in his " Physical Observations on Gardening." No less than eleven treatises on this curious subject have appeared in France and Germany, the best of which is the article Truffle, by Drs Lippold and Funke, in " Lexicon of Nature and Art," part 3, and the splendid " History and Monograph of Truffles," by Dr TulaBno, Paris, 1851 ; and the plans proposed for their cultivation by Von Justi and Bulliard are worth consulting. They all agree that a soil should be chosen for the artificial cultivation of this fungi, as similar as possible to that in which truffles grow naturally; that it should be trenched to the depth of 2 or 3 feet; and that either pieces of the earth in which truffles grow naturally, or single truffles, fully grown, should be planted in it Dr Klotzsch of Berlin recommends taking such truffles as are over-ripe, and nearly in a state of decomposition, breaking them in pieces, and placing them 2 or 3 inches deep in the soil, " in rather raised flat places," under coppices or underwood, and in a sheltered situation. No one appears to have tried its cultivation in a regular mushroom-house, although it at once presents many of the apparent essentials sought for by these authorities, under the Bhade of trees, coppiceB, &c.; and we doubt not if those who live in the localities where they naturally abound were to collect the truffles when beginning to decay, at which time their seeds are fully matured, and to transfer them to a bed of earth composed of material similar to that in which they naturally grow, abundance of truffle-spawn would be secured, and might be multiplied as readily as that of the common mushroom: or why not collect the truffle-spawn, and transfer it to artificial beds, as is often done in the case of the mushroom ? The truffle being little known to cultivators generally, the following description by Mascall, in addition to our fig. 98, may enable them to detect it with certainty : " Of a round form, more or less approaching to that of a sphere, or of an egg, or sometimes kidney-shaped (for they assume all these forms), and somewhat rough with protuberances. The colour of the surface is, when it is young, whitish, but in those that are fullgrown it is either blackish or a deep black. The colour of tho inside is whitish, with darkblue and white, grey, reddish, light-brown, or dark-brown veins, of the thickness of a horsehair, which are usually variously entangled, and which form a kind of network or mat. Between the veins are numerous cavities, filled with a great deal of mucilage and small solid grains. These scarcely visible glands were formerly said to be the seeds or germs of the young truffles. The less the inside of the truffle is coloured with dark veins, the more tender and delicious is its flesh. The blackish external rind is hard and very rough, by means of fine fissurcB, grains, and protuberances, and forms, with its small facets, which are almost hexagonal, an appearance by which it somewhat resembles the firapples of the larch. Whilst the truffle is young, its smell resembles that of putrid plants, or of moist vegetable earth. When it first approaches the point of time at which it has attained its full growth, it diffuses an agreeable smell, which is peculiar to it, resembling that of musk, which lasts only a few days: it then becomes stronger, and the nearer the fungus is to its dissolution, which speedily ensues, so much the more unpleasant and urinous is the smell, till at last it is quite disagreeable and putrid. Whilst young, tho flesh is watory, and its taste insipid : when fully formed, its firm flesh, which is like the kernel of the almond and the nut, has an extremely aromatic and delicious taste; but as soon as the fungus begins to decay, and worms and putrescence to attack it, its taste is bitter and disagreeable."
Wherever truffles are produced, they are to be found the whole year through, from the beginning of spring till late in autumn, but in the greatest plenty from towards the end of the month of August to the latter end of October. They thrive extremely, like all fungi, in warm moist autumns, and are then most delicious. After warm continuous showers, they are found nearer the surface of the soil, sometimes so high that they form little hemispherical mounds of earth, in which small clefts are produced by the sun's rays. If the soil is loose, and dry weather succeeds, the earth which was raised up falls down, and the truffle is seen half uncovered.
The favourite habitat of truffles is a somewhat moist, light, wood soil, which is defended from the immediate effect of the burning rays of the sun by large oak trees standing at a distance from each other, but is not deprived, by thick bushes, of the free access of the currents of air. Where, in woods, there are places bare of timber trees, and with but few bushes, or covered with pollard wood that does not stand thick, they thrive under an oak, beech,, white thorn, and even under a fruit tree, and sometimes attain the weight of from a pound to a pound and a half. This unusual size, however, is only met with in moist warm grounds; here they lie nearer the Burfaco of the soil. The drier the soil is, the deeper they are produced in it, but are usually so much the smaller: to this the vicinity of springs is the sole exception.
Truffles vary very much in size, form, and degree of roughness on the surface. Of all varieties those of a whitish colour arc most highly prissed, and hence the Piedmonteso is the most in esteem. Truffles, being destitute of roots, draw their nourishment from the soil by absorbent vessels which cover their whole surface, and these vessels are in general in the form of small warts; and therefore the soil which surrounds them should be kept in a uniform degree of moisture, for, if deprived of this, they soon wither away. On the other hand, if subjected to too great a degree of humidity, mould and other parasitic plants establish themselves on the surface of the tubers, and by degrees obstruct the absorbing vessels, causing putrefaction to onsue, and its concomitant attendants, insects, which prey upon tho tubers, and ultimately destroy them altogether. The first embryo of the truffle is exceedingly small and tender, as is the case with all fungi; and at that stage it is susceptible of injury, both from excess of drought and moisture. Their form is regulated much by the openness or looseness of tho soil around them, and hence the necessity of the preparations by deep-trenching and sifting, as above alluded to. " If the soil is everywhere equally loose, tho truffle assumes a globular form; but this is changed if there is on one side a greater opposition than on the other: hence the different forms of the tuber may be explained." As a rule in regard to their artificial cultivation, in connection with the state of the beds, wo may, in quoting from tho translation of Alex, von Bornholz's treatise, observe, " Where tho soil is most moist, whether above or below the truffle, there it will either rise up or sink deeper. The degree of power of attraction of the moisture in the earth to that in the truffle, necessitates such a change of place. In moist summers and in wet winters we find the truffles near the surface, even projecting above it. In dry summers, upon poor dry places in woods, they have often to be dug from a depth of more than half a foot Here is imposed upon them a greater pressure of superincumbent soil. If the earth is not very light, they cannot bo fully developed, and therefore remain small. The largest are, consequently, in general, found not deep under the earth, and in shaded light soil—that is, somewhat moist; they are not, however, so well tasted as those of middling size. Vegetable mould from oak leaves and decayed oak appears to contribute to the production and growth of truffles, as advantageously as the dung of horses does to that of mushrooms. In the one case, a peculiar animal matter produces the effect; in the other, a peculiar vegetable matter. Perhaps the tannin, or some other yet undiscovered product of tho oak tree, may be the principal causa The more of this matter any species of tree contains, with the greater facility are truffles produced in its vicinity, and in greater numbers." In the formation of truffle beds, it would appear that they should be of considerable depth, say from 18 inches to 3 feet; the soil finely sifted, and composed of vegetable mould of oak-tree leaves, decayed oak sawdust, or probably half-decayed tanners' bark, as each contains traces of the tannin principle Calcareous or ferruginous earth should be also employed; and the temperature, shade, and darkness of an ordinary mushroom-house form the fitting situation. In
regard to soil, Bornholz observes, that the greatest number of truffles, and the finest, are found in a light ferruginous calcareous soil. Such a one must, therefore, also be given to tho plantations or beds. The soil is found naturally only in particular situations, for which reason truffles do not grow everywhere. The spawn of truffles appears to be extremely delicate, and almost incapable, at least in its natural state, of being transported to any great distance; but this might be overcome, if those in whose vicinity truffles abound were to collect it and form it into spawn-bricks like that of mushrooms. Bornholz, in his treatise, confines himself entirely to their cultivation in woods and forests; all, therefore, that we can glean from his curious production is the medium suitable to the production and growth of this fungus in little other than a natural state.
From the review of Dr Tulasne's " History and Monograph of Truffles," in the " Gardeners Chronicle," 1852, p. 519, we learn that truffles and allied fungi are widely distributed over the globe. Some extend as far north as Upsal, while others are found to occur in Australia. " The black esculent truffles are by nature gregarious: they are found every year in the same spots. They occur exclusively in calcareous or calcareous and argillaceous soils, both on plains and declivities, and generally on ground more or less shaded by trees, but, as it appears, never on ground planted exclusively with conifers. Much has been written on the cultivation of truffles ; but, at present, experiments made in confirmation of published statements have not been attended with success. The only fact which is certain is, that their production can easily be effected in certain calcareous soils, even where they may not have been observed before. The plan consists simply in sowing acorns on the soil, and when tho oaks have attained the ago of ten or twelve years, truffles begin to appear. The extensive truffle layers of Loudon at Vienna were actually produced in this manner. They consisted a few years since of naked uncultivated plains, where truffles were unknown. The plantations must not be too thick. They are cut down for the first time when they are about twelve years' growth, and then at intervals of from seven to nine years. They continue fertile for about twenty-fivo or thirty years, when at length scarcely any truffles are produced. From the facility with which the mycelium, or spawn, is developed in specimens which have been brought from a distance, Dr Tulasne conceives that it might not be impossible to transplant the more valuable species into truffle layers where the more common sorts only occur. Their presence appears in general to depend more on the mineralogical character of the soil than on particular temperature, limestone districts being certainly most favourable to their growth."
Tho European names aro—Truffel in German; Tartufo nero in Italian; Truffe in French; and Aardnoot in Dutch.
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Perhaps a bit dry or strenuous on the brain, some of these 19th century texts are. Still, they do help ground our understanding and improve appreciation of the truffle.
Sunday, January 16, 2011
Truffles & Truffle Hunters by Sabine Baring-Gould, Part III
Here is the final installment of this great piece of truffle descriptive history!
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Truffles are sadly exposed to being poached, and the dog is the animal trained to poach by his rascally master. The dog will himself dig up the tuber, and bring it in his mouth. The poacher has sometimes his store of stolen truffles concealed under leaves, and he sends his dog to remove them. This the faithful creature does, and poaching truffles by this means is difficult of detection.
The botanical name of the black edible truffle is Tuber melanosporum.
As it grows and swells, it raises and cracks the earth above it, and through these cracks various insects enter and lay their eggs in its flesh, which is to serve as food for the larva till change of condition. The peasants have observed the fluttering of the insects, have noticed that they have entered the soil, but they drew from this observation the wrong conclusion, when they supposed that they wounded the root of the oak. What they pricked was the ripening tuber.
As already said, the first notice given of the presence of the truffle about the roots of the oak is the perishing of the grasses and flowers that covered the soil. This is occasioned by the minute filaments thrown out by the truffle in its growth, which envelop and strangle the roots of the plants above and around it. But as the truffle ripens, its rootlets are atrophied and disappear, leaving marks on the surface of the tuber where they have been; and as the truffle is dug up when ripe, then all these rootlets have disappeared, and the tuber comes up like a nut, so that it has long been supposed, erroneously, that it was without roots.
If a mushroom be taken and placed, when ripe, over a sheet of paper and tapped, then a fine powder falls on the paper, from- the radiating membranes under the cap. These are the spores or seeds. But the truffle does not produce its spores in the same manner. They are contained within its fleshy body, and 'are only liberated when the flesh decays.
Usually the truffle lies from one to three inches under the surface of the soil, consequently it is very liable to be killed by a hard frost, and only flourishes in such southern districts where the frost lies superficially. After oaks have attained the age of 25 or 30 years, they are able to resist the attacks of the truffle, at all events spasmodically. It has been observed that after they have attained this age, a couple or more years may elapse without any truffles appearing about their roots, then for a year they are produced, and then again ensues a period in which they are free. That the truffle reduces the vitality of an oak, just as does mistletoe, can hardly be doubted, as it drains away the sap from the feeders of the oak. It attacks the essential organs of its life.
As the law is now well understood that a truffle ceases to produce regularly after the tree on which it feeds has reached the age of from 25 to 30 years, in artificial truffle grounds the young oak trees are invariably cut down at this age. Rather hard on the oak—but the tree is only valued for its parasite. By planting acorns every year, a regular crop of these earth-nuts is obtained. No coppice is fruitful in truffles. "Coppice," said a tmfficr, "is the poison of these tubers." They must have freedom in which to develop; moreover, what kills them is the accumulation of dead leaves, or any substance above them, which excludes light and air. An excellent truffle ground has been ruined for years by the accumulation on it of faggots that have been left, and not immediately removed. Moreover, much injury is done in an oak wood when the trees are felled, by dragging the timber along the soil, as it tears up the tubers, and injures the fibrous roots on which they feed.
Vast quantities of truffles are brought to PeVigueux, where are many manufactories. They are bottled and tinned; and they enter into the composition of the pates or which Perigueux is famous; pates of partridge, pates of hare, pates of foie gras, and various jellies and spiced dainties. The winter months are those when this manufacture goes on, for not only is the truffle only then in season, but so also the game, and then only have the geese been fattened up so that their livers are enlarged.
The preserved truffle is hardly to be commended. It is placed in a bath of boiling water for at least three hours, when it has given forth a good deal of its flavour. Then it is hermetically sealed up. The main consumption of truffles is in France. Two-thirds of those sold are eaten at home. France is a favoured land for truffles, and Frenchmen love them. In 1885 nearly 47,000 kilos were exported to England, 26,000 to Germany, 8000 to China, and 17,000 to Belgium. The demand in the United States is not very great, 9550 kilos. France cannot supply the demand, and something like 20,000 kilos are imported, mostly from Italy.
To hear enthusiasts speak, one would expect something more of the truffle than the unprepossessed are disposed to allow. It is said to assist digestion, to have medicinal properties, to be a dainty above all other dainties; it is called the "diamond of the kitchen," and "the pearl of Perigord." But no medical man of experience will allow that it has curative properties; and certainly if a diamond or a pearl, it is a black one, and, but to the professional gourmand, not very tasty.
Although the best truffles are reputed to be those of PeVigord, yet the department of Lot, of which Cahors is the capital, produces a far larger amount than that of Dordogne, and the principal truffle market is at Cahors.
This venerable city is planted on a rocky tongue of land, round which winds the beautiful river Lot. On all sides tower up limestone mountains, barren and dry, but with limpid springs oozing out at their bases. This is just the country for truffles, and they flourish wherever there are oaks on which they can prey.
Cahors possesses a bridge that surpasses even that of Prague in picturesqueness. It is mediaeval, consists of six arches, and has on it three towers. It is in good condition, and has been carefully restored. Formerly the second bridge had likewise its towers, but these have been destroyed. According to tradition, the devil assisted the architect commissioned to build the bridge, stipulating for the soul of the architect. By some means the latter outwitted the devil, who in a rage vowed that the bridge should never be completed. Accordingly, one angle at the top of the middle tower remained ruinous all through the Middle Ages. At the restoration of the bridge the ruinous angle was rebuilt, and the figure of Satan was placed there, in token that modern science had defeated him.
The cathedral of Cahors is one of those quaint domed Byzantine edifices that are found about this region of France. It has two domes, and consists of one vast hall, without pillars and aisles. The easternmost compartment was pulled down in the fourteenth century, and rebuilt in the style of that period, The church is very odd and very striking. It stands in the same relation to Amiens or Bourges as does a stout old lady to a slim and tall maiden. It is low, broad, solid—and does not pose to be thought beautiful.
It is an amusing sight to stand in the market at Cahors and watch the sale of truffles. The cunning, shrewd, suspicious French peasant shows himself there in his true character. All the largest truffles are at the top of his sack. Below are not only the smaller, but also "dog's noses." To this market come the agents for the great manufacturers of conserves at Perigueux, and much haggling ensues and turning over of the stores exposed. Finally a bargain is struck, and the average price is 15 francs, or 12s. 6d., for a kilo, that is, a little over 2 lb.; but at times it reaches 28 francs. Some years favour the production of truffles, and in some they are scarce. But whether in plenty or scarce, the demand is the same, nay rather, it grows. The bottled and tinned truffle bears the same relation to one that is fresh, as does the tinned lobster or the potted peach to the lobster fresh from the sea or the peach from the sunny wall.
Truffle grounds are regularly let, and the Government derives a revenue from its domains planted with oaks, which it farms to truffiers. One little village in the department of Lot, nearly ruined by the disease that swept away its vines, replanted with young oak, and now is flourishing on the revenue derived from the truffles. In one year its harvest of truffles brought in 300,000 francs.
The Italian truffle {Tuber magnatuni) is peculiar to Italy. It is liver-coloured internally, and has a strong scent of garlic. Its habitat is much the same as the French truffle, but it differs in this respect, that it is not confined to woods, but is found in the open field as well. The Italian peasantry prefer to roast their truffles in hot ashes.
In Great Britain we have a number of species, of which the Tuber astivum, that is found in abundance in the New Forest, is most esteemed. It is hunted regularly by trained dogs in the Forest, and its market price varies from 2s. to 5s. per pound.
The only occasion on which I have met with discourtesy in Southern France was at Perigueux, when I visited a factory of potted spiced meats. The proprietors absolutely refused to let me over it and to give me any information. But there was a reason for this. A few years ago some Americans got into one of the factories, observed the processes, and started similar manufactories in America. As the export to the United States amounts to something like 25,000 lb. per annum, this naturally enough aroused the anger of the French manufacturers.
Closely connected with the truffle is the foie gras, which is flavoured with slices of it.
The geese are fattened for three or four weeks on Indian corn, which is poured down their throats through funnels. They become obese and can hardly waddle about. Their livers become enormously enlarged, and when killed, the poor brutes arc sold rather for their livers than for their flesh. Foie gras fetches from 6 to 7 francs a kilo.
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Truffles are sadly exposed to being poached, and the dog is the animal trained to poach by his rascally master. The dog will himself dig up the tuber, and bring it in his mouth. The poacher has sometimes his store of stolen truffles concealed under leaves, and he sends his dog to remove them. This the faithful creature does, and poaching truffles by this means is difficult of detection.
The botanical name of the black edible truffle is Tuber melanosporum.
As it grows and swells, it raises and cracks the earth above it, and through these cracks various insects enter and lay their eggs in its flesh, which is to serve as food for the larva till change of condition. The peasants have observed the fluttering of the insects, have noticed that they have entered the soil, but they drew from this observation the wrong conclusion, when they supposed that they wounded the root of the oak. What they pricked was the ripening tuber.
As already said, the first notice given of the presence of the truffle about the roots of the oak is the perishing of the grasses and flowers that covered the soil. This is occasioned by the minute filaments thrown out by the truffle in its growth, which envelop and strangle the roots of the plants above and around it. But as the truffle ripens, its rootlets are atrophied and disappear, leaving marks on the surface of the tuber where they have been; and as the truffle is dug up when ripe, then all these rootlets have disappeared, and the tuber comes up like a nut, so that it has long been supposed, erroneously, that it was without roots.
If a mushroom be taken and placed, when ripe, over a sheet of paper and tapped, then a fine powder falls on the paper, from- the radiating membranes under the cap. These are the spores or seeds. But the truffle does not produce its spores in the same manner. They are contained within its fleshy body, and 'are only liberated when the flesh decays.
Usually the truffle lies from one to three inches under the surface of the soil, consequently it is very liable to be killed by a hard frost, and only flourishes in such southern districts where the frost lies superficially. After oaks have attained the age of 25 or 30 years, they are able to resist the attacks of the truffle, at all events spasmodically. It has been observed that after they have attained this age, a couple or more years may elapse without any truffles appearing about their roots, then for a year they are produced, and then again ensues a period in which they are free. That the truffle reduces the vitality of an oak, just as does mistletoe, can hardly be doubted, as it drains away the sap from the feeders of the oak. It attacks the essential organs of its life.
As the law is now well understood that a truffle ceases to produce regularly after the tree on which it feeds has reached the age of from 25 to 30 years, in artificial truffle grounds the young oak trees are invariably cut down at this age. Rather hard on the oak—but the tree is only valued for its parasite. By planting acorns every year, a regular crop of these earth-nuts is obtained. No coppice is fruitful in truffles. "Coppice," said a tmfficr, "is the poison of these tubers." They must have freedom in which to develop; moreover, what kills them is the accumulation of dead leaves, or any substance above them, which excludes light and air. An excellent truffle ground has been ruined for years by the accumulation on it of faggots that have been left, and not immediately removed. Moreover, much injury is done in an oak wood when the trees are felled, by dragging the timber along the soil, as it tears up the tubers, and injures the fibrous roots on which they feed.
Vast quantities of truffles are brought to PeVigueux, where are many manufactories. They are bottled and tinned; and they enter into the composition of the pates or which Perigueux is famous; pates of partridge, pates of hare, pates of foie gras, and various jellies and spiced dainties. The winter months are those when this manufacture goes on, for not only is the truffle only then in season, but so also the game, and then only have the geese been fattened up so that their livers are enlarged.
The preserved truffle is hardly to be commended. It is placed in a bath of boiling water for at least three hours, when it has given forth a good deal of its flavour. Then it is hermetically sealed up. The main consumption of truffles is in France. Two-thirds of those sold are eaten at home. France is a favoured land for truffles, and Frenchmen love them. In 1885 nearly 47,000 kilos were exported to England, 26,000 to Germany, 8000 to China, and 17,000 to Belgium. The demand in the United States is not very great, 9550 kilos. France cannot supply the demand, and something like 20,000 kilos are imported, mostly from Italy.
To hear enthusiasts speak, one would expect something more of the truffle than the unprepossessed are disposed to allow. It is said to assist digestion, to have medicinal properties, to be a dainty above all other dainties; it is called the "diamond of the kitchen," and "the pearl of Perigord." But no medical man of experience will allow that it has curative properties; and certainly if a diamond or a pearl, it is a black one, and, but to the professional gourmand, not very tasty.
Although the best truffles are reputed to be those of PeVigord, yet the department of Lot, of which Cahors is the capital, produces a far larger amount than that of Dordogne, and the principal truffle market is at Cahors.
This venerable city is planted on a rocky tongue of land, round which winds the beautiful river Lot. On all sides tower up limestone mountains, barren and dry, but with limpid springs oozing out at their bases. This is just the country for truffles, and they flourish wherever there are oaks on which they can prey.
Cahors possesses a bridge that surpasses even that of Prague in picturesqueness. It is mediaeval, consists of six arches, and has on it three towers. It is in good condition, and has been carefully restored. Formerly the second bridge had likewise its towers, but these have been destroyed. According to tradition, the devil assisted the architect commissioned to build the bridge, stipulating for the soul of the architect. By some means the latter outwitted the devil, who in a rage vowed that the bridge should never be completed. Accordingly, one angle at the top of the middle tower remained ruinous all through the Middle Ages. At the restoration of the bridge the ruinous angle was rebuilt, and the figure of Satan was placed there, in token that modern science had defeated him.
The cathedral of Cahors is one of those quaint domed Byzantine edifices that are found about this region of France. It has two domes, and consists of one vast hall, without pillars and aisles. The easternmost compartment was pulled down in the fourteenth century, and rebuilt in the style of that period, The church is very odd and very striking. It stands in the same relation to Amiens or Bourges as does a stout old lady to a slim and tall maiden. It is low, broad, solid—and does not pose to be thought beautiful.
It is an amusing sight to stand in the market at Cahors and watch the sale of truffles. The cunning, shrewd, suspicious French peasant shows himself there in his true character. All the largest truffles are at the top of his sack. Below are not only the smaller, but also "dog's noses." To this market come the agents for the great manufacturers of conserves at Perigueux, and much haggling ensues and turning over of the stores exposed. Finally a bargain is struck, and the average price is 15 francs, or 12s. 6d., for a kilo, that is, a little over 2 lb.; but at times it reaches 28 francs. Some years favour the production of truffles, and in some they are scarce. But whether in plenty or scarce, the demand is the same, nay rather, it grows. The bottled and tinned truffle bears the same relation to one that is fresh, as does the tinned lobster or the potted peach to the lobster fresh from the sea or the peach from the sunny wall.
Truffle grounds are regularly let, and the Government derives a revenue from its domains planted with oaks, which it farms to truffiers. One little village in the department of Lot, nearly ruined by the disease that swept away its vines, replanted with young oak, and now is flourishing on the revenue derived from the truffles. In one year its harvest of truffles brought in 300,000 francs.
The Italian truffle {Tuber magnatuni) is peculiar to Italy. It is liver-coloured internally, and has a strong scent of garlic. Its habitat is much the same as the French truffle, but it differs in this respect, that it is not confined to woods, but is found in the open field as well. The Italian peasantry prefer to roast their truffles in hot ashes.
In Great Britain we have a number of species, of which the Tuber astivum, that is found in abundance in the New Forest, is most esteemed. It is hunted regularly by trained dogs in the Forest, and its market price varies from 2s. to 5s. per pound.
The only occasion on which I have met with discourtesy in Southern France was at Perigueux, when I visited a factory of potted spiced meats. The proprietors absolutely refused to let me over it and to give me any information. But there was a reason for this. A few years ago some Americans got into one of the factories, observed the processes, and started similar manufactories in America. As the export to the United States amounts to something like 25,000 lb. per annum, this naturally enough aroused the anger of the French manufacturers.
Closely connected with the truffle is the foie gras, which is flavoured with slices of it.
The geese are fattened for three or four weeks on Indian corn, which is poured down their throats through funnels. They become obese and can hardly waddle about. Their livers become enormously enlarged, and when killed, the poor brutes arc sold rather for their livers than for their flesh. Foie gras fetches from 6 to 7 francs a kilo.
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